My name is Dan Shannon. I own Gary's Auto Service, an auto repair shop that has served the Denver metro area for over 25 years. We are certainly not perfect, but we strive to provide honest, top quality service at a reasonable price and true value. Most importantly, our customers trust us to do the right thing.
Welcome to my blog, which will focus on providing easy to understand, short explanations of common auto maintenance and repair issues.
The aim of this blog is to help you understand how your car works and what you need to do to keep it running with a minimum of expense and trouble. From time to time, I will offer life advice that may relate tangentially to automotive issues, and I welcome you to disregard that sort of advice. I will also shamelessly plug the group One Sun One Moon, a fabulous pop rock garage band Vong (drums) and Yeng Chang (bass) , two of our mechanics, started with their sister Jamie (vocals) and Brandon (lead guitar) . They are GREAT and can be heard at: http://www.myspace.com/onesunonemoon
The aim of this blog is to help you understand how your car works and what you need to do to keep it running with a minimum of expense and trouble. From time to time, I will offer life advice that may relate tangentially to automotive issues, and I welcome you to disregard that sort of advice. I will also shamelessly plug the group One Sun One Moon, a fabulous pop rock garage band Vong (drums) and Yeng Chang (bass) , two of our mechanics, started with their sister Jamie (vocals) and Brandon (lead guitar) . They are GREAT and can be heard at: http://www.myspace.com/onesunonemoon
Why don't some (most) people trust auto repair shops? In my humble opinion, there are at least three reasons:
First, many consumers have had an unpleasant experience, which, in common parlance is referred to as "being taken for a ride" by one or more repair or maintenance facilities. The "ride" might have involved being sold repairs that were unneeded, improperly performed work, being overcharged, or being overcharged for work that was unnecessary in the first place. It really doesn't matter what "the ride" was, suffice to say that it involves behavior that no reasonable person should be expected to accept and it was (understandably) very unpleasant. All it takes is one bad experience with one bad actor to tar the entire industry. In my experience, most shops are honest and well meaning.
Second, nobody, and I mean nobody, likes to spend their hard earned dollars to repair their trusty steed. Shouldn't there be a government program to cover the costs of auto repair? We subsidize agriculture and energy production, wouldn't the masses be happier if Uncle Sam picked up the cost of auto repair? Power to the people!
Third, and most importantly, some consumers don't understand the major systems of their cars, and some repair shops do a lousy job of explaining how those systems operate, how the system in question got broken, and exactly what the repair involves. This situation virtually ensures that there will be misunderstanding and mistrust (at least on the part of the consumer).
Let the blogs begin!
Fluid Dynamics
Maintaining proper fluid levels is an essential and easy maintenance task that anyone can perform. Maintaining proper fluid levels and changing your fluids at regular intervals will make your car last longer. The systems that need checking include the engine oil, transmission, engine cooling system, brakes, window washer and air conditioning system.
Before we get started, I have to make the following point: Don't guess as to what fluids go where. The fill caps to fluid reservoirs usually, but not always are labeled "coolant" "brake fluid", and the like. If you are the least bit unsure as to the location of each fill site, consult your owner's manual or bring your car to a mechanic. I have seen cars with oil in the coolant reservoir (which does a number on the heater core, radiator and water pump by the way) and auto transmission fluid in the brake system reservoir. If you are unsure, ask, (there are no stupid questions where cars are concerned!) and you'll save yourself a lot of money in repairs.
Let's discuss each of these systems one by one.
Engine Oil.
Maintaining your engine oil at frequent, regular intervals is one of the best things you can do for your car. The oil in the crankcase of your engine is critical to long and healthy motor life. Without it, your engine would freeze up in a matter of minutes. Dirty oil is laden with acids and abrasives and has lost a good deal of it's lubricating capacity. Typically, you should change your oil every three months or 3,500 miles, whichever comes first. If you use synthetic oil, you can stretch this interval to 7,000 miles or every 6 months. I know that manufacturers often recommend longer service intervals, but those interval are for "normal service" which is driving that does not involve stop and go commuter style trips, dusty conditions, or altitude, all of which we have in the metro Denver area. Typical driving conditions in our area involve what is called "severe service", which calls for more frequent oil changes.
Checking your oil level is a fairly simple procedure. Experts generally agree that it's best to drive the car first before checking it. So take a little spin, then find a cool, shady spot to pop the hood.
Let the car sit for at least five minutes before checking, to give the oil time to settle into the sump.
With the hood open find the dipstick. It will be near the front of the engine, close to you, and sometimes has a brightly colored handle — yellow, red, or some other noticeable color. Find it? OK, remove it and wipe it with a clean rag or towel. Reinsert it into hole, then slowly remove it again. Check the level. The oil mark should fall between the two hash marks on the dipstick. If it's below the lower level, you need to add oil -- a quart will usually do it. Before you do so, though, wipe the dipstick again and check it a second time. Still low? Add a quart and recheck it. (It's best to add the oil, then start the engine to circulate it, then let it sit for another five minutes before rechecking.) If it's still below the lower hash mark, you may need to add another quart, but be careful not to overfill it, as this can lead to other problems.
Automatic Transmission.
The automatic transmission fluid should be checked with the engine running. The transmission dipstick is typically located behind the oil dipstick, and doesn't stick up as high. If you have trouble locating it, consult your owner's manual. Oftentimes it will have the same colorful markings (yellow, red, etc.) as the oil dipstick.
Remove any jewelry, scarves, or loose clothing before examining your engine while it is running. The last thing you need is an article of clothing to become entangled in your engine's fan, serpentine belt, or other moving parts. Then, start the engine and locate the transmission fluid dipstick. With the engine running, extract the transmission dipstick. Wipe it clean and reinsert it, then extract it again. It will have similar markings to the oil dipstick, one mark for too low, another for too high.
The automatic transmission is a sealed system, requiring little maintenance. If your fluid is low, it most likely means you have a leak in the system, such as a worn seal or a crack somewhere. Have you noticed an oily patch on your driveway where you park? Is it red, or reddish-brown? If so, you may have a transmission leak and will need to see a mechanic.
Even if the level is OK, note the color and consistency of the fluid. If it is very dark or black, check your records and owner's manual and plan on getting it changed. It's a good idea to have the fluid "flushed" once a year, as the fluid loses it's lubricating capacity over time.
Manual Transmission.
This is done with the engine off. For most cars, you have to get under the car and remove the fill plug with a wrench. Stick your finger in and feel for fluid. If you can feel fluid on the tip of your finger, it's probably OK. Again, as above, note the color of the fluid and consult your owner's manual for exact procedures and service interval.
Many cars these days have a hydraulic clutch system, which needs brake fluid to keep the parts lubricated. An easy way to tell if your car has one is to check under the hood and look for a small plastic reservoir-similar to the one used for brake fluid, but smaller. Once you've located it, remove the lid and check the level. It should be at least two-thirds full. If not, fill to the "full" line with brake fluid.
Radiator/Cooling System. This should be done when the engine is cool or lukewarm, not cold.
This can be hazardous if not done correctly! Always check the radiator after you have shut off your engine. Also, the coolant in your radiator is scalding hot when the engine is at operating temperature, and if you aren't careful, you may Locate the radiator cap. It should be in the center of the engine compartment, in the very front. Use a rag to remove it. Look down into the radiator and see if you can spot fluid. If it's near the top, you're in good shape. If not, you'll need to add some.
Always check your owner's manual to see what type of coolant your car needs. Using the wrong type of coolant can damage your cooling system as well as your heating system.
Unless the engine coolant is already diluted (it will say so on the container) Engine coolant is added on a 50/50 basis -- 50 percent water, 50 percent coolant. Read the instructions on the coolant container for details.
You may want to also check the fluid level in the coolant reservoir. This is a plastic container just to the side of the radiator, with a hose connecting the two. It serves as an overflow receptacle for excess radiator coolant (since the fluid expands and contracts with heat). Pop the lid open and fill it about two-thirds of the way full.
You should have a coolant flush at least once a year.
Brakes.
Like the transmission, the braking system is a sealed network. If it repeatedly gets low on fluid, you need to locate the source of the problem, either by yourself or with the help of a mechanic. A leaky braking system is nothing to play around with.
To check the fluid level, locate the brake fluid reservoir. It's usually in the engine compartment. If you can't find it, consult your owner's manual. Remove the lid and check the level. It should be at least two-thirds full. If not, fill to the "full" line with brake fluid. Never, allow any water to get into your braking system, so if it's raining when you want to check the system, find a dry place!
Brake fluid is designed to attract water and hold it in suspension. Over time, it becomes sodden, and the water moves to the lowest point of your brake system and causes the steel parts to rust (the lowest point also happens to be where there are a lot of expensive parts to rust.)
Battery.
Be careful when working around your battery, as the fluid inside is a mix of water and sulfuric acid. Always protect your eyes, shin and clothing, and immediately flush anything that comes into contact with the fluid with copious amounts of water and seek medical attention!
Some cars have what is called a "maintenance-free battery." This means the battery is sealed and should not be tampered with. You'll be able to tell right away, since the battery has a flat top with no openings.
Most cars, however, still utilize traditional battery design, with six cells that need occasional refilling. Access to the cells comes through six screw caps, or, more commonly these days, two rows of plastic caps that pressure-fit over three cells each. Either pry the caps off with a flat-head screwdriver, or unscrew the six caps.
It's best to fill battery cells with distilled water, since it lacks contaminants and trace elements that can cause a corrosive buildup around the battery terminals.
The battery cells should be filled to the bottom of the fill hole, no further.
Window Washer.
Some newer cars and trucks now have a light that comes on to indicate when this receptacle needs refilling. It's typically located in the engine compartment, underneath the windshield. It looks a lot like the coolant overflow reservoir, but will be located closer to the rear of the engine compartment. Also, both of the caps will be labeled "coolant" and "windshield," or something similar, to distinguish one from the other.
Some vehicles, such as SUVs and minivans, may have a second receptacle, located in the rear of the vehicle, to supply the rear wipers.
Car Maintenance
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